VIDEO: Special report on Wisbech by a visiting Irish journalist and ‘Why We Love Wisbech’ video

North Brink, Wisbech.

North Brink, Wisbech. - Credit: Archant

The London editor of the Irish Times, Mark Hennessy, has visited Wisbech to learn more about what he describes as the “Venice of the Fens”.


Wisbech - Credit: Archant

One of his major goals was to gain an understanding of how the town has become a magnet for eastern European workers.

FDC - Boat House Wisbech

FDC - Boat House Wisbech - Credit: Archant

He was keen to see how the integration process has unfolded, speaking to people on both sides of the immigration debate.

The Rose and Crown Hotel in Wisbech.

The Rose and Crown Hotel in Wisbech. - Credit: Archant

Here, he gives his account of his time in the Fens.

Moon Market Wisbech.

Moon Market Wisbech. - Credit: Archant

Wisbech view

Wisbech view - Credit: Archant

wisbech park

wisbech park - Credit: Archant

In the 17th century, the people of Wisbech became known as “the Fen Tigers” because of their bitter opposition to the draining of the marshes that surrounded them. In time, the drainage made the town wealthy.

Wisbech Town Centre

Wisbech Town Centre - Credit: Archant

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Fine, mostly Georgian, houses built by rich traders today stand on both sides of the River Nene from the days a century later when Wisbech was “the Venice of the Fens”, an inland port that boomed from exporting crops grown on the newly available lands.

North End Wisbech, View of river and boats at eye view with police station.

North End Wisbech, View of river and boats at eye view with police station. - Credit: Archant

In the last decade, Wisbech has seen change on a scale to match those days, following the arrival of thousands of eastern Europeans to work on local farms and in factories in the years after European Union expansion in 2004.

Rosmini Centre Wisbech.

Rosmini Centre Wisbech. - Credit: Archant

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Seasonal labour is nothing new for the Fens. In fact, it has been a feature of life for centuries. In decades past, travellers and gypsies, students and the poor from London came during harvest time.


Wisbech - Credit: Archant

But, afterwards, they left. This time, arrivals have stayed.

Queen's Voluntary Award presentation Rosmini Centre, Wisbech. Left: Anita Grodkienicz, Lord Lieutena

Queen's Voluntary Award presentation Rosmini Centre, Wisbech. Left: Anita Grodkienicz, Lord Lieutenant of Cambridgeshire, Hugh Duberly - Credit: Archant

The pace of change has discomfited many locals. Some object they cannot get work, or must accept lower wages.

Wisbech Town FC hosted a free soccer camp and Pamper day with the Rosmini Community Centre. Adam Mar

Wisbech Town FC hosted a free soccer camp and Pamper day with the Rosmini Community Centre. Adam Markiewicz and Justyna Wanska with their cake stall. - Credit: Archant

Others simply object to foreigners. Many say Wisbech should get more help.

National decisions, or the lack of them, have led to increased immigration, argues MP Steve Barclay, but it is local communities that struggle with the consequences, including pressure on school places or on the health service.

Early on a Monday morning in Market Street, as the town slowly kicks into life, Wisbech’s changing face is visible.

Eastern European accents match, if not outnumber, those of locals. One-third of the population is believed to be foreign. So, too, are nearly half of all early schoolgoers.

In the 30,000-strong town, there are many such as 20-year-old Natasha Wright, speaking as she hands out CVs to local shopkeepers, who feel short-changed.

“Yes, I do feel that it has made it more difficult for me to get a job ,” Wright, accompanied by her grandmother, Dot Turton, said. “I don’t want a life on benefits.”

Ironically, the shop she had entered is run by a Polish couple, Adam Markiewicz and Justyna Wanska, who came to Wisbech nine years ago, first working for an agency before spending seven years in a local meat processors.

The shop is one of many opened by immigrants in recent years in a town where little else is starting up.

“We have never claimed a penny from anybody since we came here, not a penny,” says Markiewicz, who works “up to 14 hours” a day as he and his partner try to get their Coffee & Square bakery and coffee shop off the ground.

Irked by the “benefit cheat” representation so common in much of the British press, Markiewicz, who is preparing to rent out a bedroom in their house to make ends meet, notes that one Englishman came to view, telling them “that the council would pay his rent”.

“We’re happy here. We bought a house,” says Wanska. “It is tough here, it is not easy. But life in Poland was harder.

“We both lived with our parents there because we could not afford to live together. So we are staying here. We want to be part of this society.”

For years, Wisbech has appeared to be a town stuck in a rut.

University attendance by locals is one-third lower than the British average, while the main local secondary school, Thomas Clarkson, was a byword for problems.

Matters have improved since the school got a new home, but truancy and poor results remain a problem.

However, many agree with the view of Norfolk West MP Liz Truss views that children of Polish immigrants in East Anglia are often the most successful in classes.

Much of the local work available lies in crop-picking and food processing, though the Irish-owned Moy Park chicken processor last year shed 300 jobs when it amalgamated its ready-to-eat division in Wisbech with its plant in Grantham.

“Some people who want to work in food packaging now feel that not having an eastern European language, and being British, is holding them back because it is so dominated by the migrant labour force,” Steve Barclay, the Conservative MP, said.

Pay rates are just part of the issue. Many local employers keep a minimum of permanent staff, filling gaps daily with agency-recruited labour.

Workers often do not know until “six o’clock in the morning if they have a day’s work”, says Barclay.

Today, immigration features highly among locals’ concerns – 80 per cent of those who responded to a survey by Barclay put it as their highest priority.

But views are formed by economic and social pressures, far more than they are by race.

The town’s three places on Cambridgeshire County Council are filled by three UK Independence Party members.

“I believe in giving everybody a chance, but if there are not enough jobs for locals then why is the government letting people in?” asked the other member of the Ukip local team, Cllr Paul Clapp, who is mulling a run in the 2015 general election.

“Surely it is madness to say that thousands can come here and then worry about providing services for them, or, even worse, doing nothing to provide extra services?” he said.

Even immigrants have “become incensed” about the numbers, he said.

Last year, 200 people attended an anti-immigration demonstration in the local park, though 500 came to a pro-integration “We Are Wisbech” community event, held on the same date. “The ‘antis’ demo was a flop,” said one local.

On a list of irritations, overcrowded houses rank highly. Before Christmas, 300 police, home office and council officials raided eight properties in Wisbech, March and King’s Lynn.

Twelve people were found living in one small three-bedroom house.

In all, 2,300 houses are rented in Wisbech, many to immigrants, according to Fenland District Council.

Numerous health and safety breaches have been revealed, “including examples of appalling overcrowding and serious fire risks”, it said.

Poor standards lead to other problems: “Logically when they are not working they congregate on the street because they can’t sit and watch TV so easily in their house because there are so many people there and often they are so squalid,” Barclay said.

Often, the properties are rented room-by-room to immigrants who pay £60 for a single or £120 for a double to gangmasters, who then also charge them £5-a-day to ferry them to surrounding farms for crop-picking or other work.

“One of the biggest problems is urinating, even defecating in the street,” said Barclay.

“Some tenants are being abused, so there is a lot of street drinking.

“Obviously people need to pee. Town loos were damaged, so they put a charge, so people used surrounding alleys.”

Sometimes, every element of immigrants’ lives are orchestrated, tracked and exploited by gangmasters.

In Whittlesey, a few miles away, one of them had installed CCTVs in every room to spy on his workers.

“Victims are [often] immediately placed in debt to a gangmaster who controls their affairs. They are paid wages well below the legal minimum for extremely long hours and their pay is often taken to service debt,” said Chief Insp Mike Winters.

“Exploitation also has significant knock-on effects, particularly when work dries up, including street drinking, homelessness, anti-social behaviour and shoplifting.

“Victims are often too frightened to come forward and reluctant to seek help.”

Frequently, however, the problems lie not with immigrants but with the application of British law; minimum wage rates are not trackable because payments are not made electronically, for example.

However, there are signs of co-ordination. Fenland District Council has been given nearly £200,000 to step up house inspections and police “noise, waste and other antisocial behaviour and rough-sleeping” problems, along with helping some to go home. So far, six have been repatriated.

Some locals believe the problems will return in the summer, when people are more likely to use back gardens, or gather outdoors: “Cutbacks are happening everywhere, so we’ll see if the police are as active,” said one.

The Gangmasters Licensing Authority, the home office, Cambridgeshire Fire and Rescue Service, and Revenue and Customs are now co-operating in a joint task force. Last month, two gangmasters lost their licences.

On the Queen’s Road in Wisbech, Polish man Tadeusz Slesak, who lived in the town before he moved to rent a council house in March, has come to the Rosmini Centre for help in dealing with an overcharge by a mobile telephone company.

Living “happily” for six years in Britain, Slesak, who works for a local pet food company, has three children, Zuschanna (3) and two teenagers attending Thomas Clarkson School.

Inside, local pensioner, Dave Watts (73), who began volunteering before Christmas, helps recently arrived Hungarian steeplejack Tamas Kosa. “Lots of people moan about them. I have found most of them to be quite polite,” he said, with a shrug.

Still with poor English, Kosa, with the help of Google Translator, tries to explain his skills.

Until now he has worked for an agency. Intending to stay, he wants to get the necessary health and safety papers to work once more as a steeplejack.

However, Watts concedes the arrival of people such as Kosa has made life harder for locals: “I think they are trying to get work, they are not here to collect benefits, or handouts. But I have a son who has had a hell of a time getting a job.”

Established six years ago, Rosmini, run by Bedfordshire-born Anita Grodkiewicz, offers assistance to all in the community, with the help of 120 local volunteers.

“It began with the arrival of the Poles, they started to come to [Our Lady & Saint Charles Borromeo] Church.

“Then they started coming for English language lessons. Later, they needed help with problems, such as MOT paperwork,” she recalls.

Local police have used the centre to build ties with the immigrants, while a Lithuanian man serves as a police community support officer.

Problems such as street-drinking are being tackled in a way that they were not a year ago, she argues.

Feelings about immigration are not directed principally at either the immigrants or local councils, she believes, but at central government which, they feel, “has caused mass immigration”.

She said: “Fenland has traditionally been isolated, very introverted, while because this place lies on the borders of several countries it has tended to be ignored by councils and everybody else.”

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